Ford OEM fuel lines are made with quick connects that allow for easy connection and disconnection. It also removes the need for fuel injection clamps. This article shows how to make Ford OEM like fuel lines for Factory Five Mark 3 Roadster and Type 65 Coupe. It also documents the complete fuel system that I used in myCoupe.

The Ford OEM fuel line use nylon lines encased in rubber fuel hose. At the end of each nylon line there is a quick connect. The quick connects are pressed into the nylon time.

TOOLS

There are two main tools that are required to make Ford OEM like fuel lines.

The first is a fuel line repair tool that presses the quick connect into the nylon fuel line. You could do it manually heating the nylon line, but it won't be as easy. Always select the right tool for the job. The tool I use is one from Dorman Products. It is part number 800-301.



The other tool is one that creates the flares on the steel fuel lines that the quick connects fit. It uses a hydraulic ram to make the flares. It works well and is carried by many auto tool suppliers. It comes from Mastercool and the part number is 71300.



Other tools needed are a heat gun, a tubing cutter (a sharp knife will work) and scissors.

PARTS

Fuel Pump : Ford Racing M-9407-C50
Fuel Filter : Motorcraft FG-1083
Fuel Filter Bracket : Ford 3W4Z-9180-AA

REAR

Starting at the rear, the first thing to do is mount the fuel filter bracket and install the fuel filter.



I cut a piece of 1/8 inch steel plate and drilled a hole the same size as the fuel filter bracket. I welded a bolt on the back of the plate so it would be easier to bolt on the fuel filter bracket. I fitted it to location on the frame as shown in the picture. I then welded it in a cleaned up the weld so the fuel filter bracket would site flat.





FRONT

A common complaint by builders is that they have problems filling their completed cars with fuel. They have to pump very slow or they risk the problem of over pressuring the tank and get fuel splashed back out the filler.

This problem occurs because of need to cut the Mustang fuel filler pipe to make it fit the Roadster and Coupe. The cutting of the pipe and adding an extension removes the venting feature of the Mustang fuel filler pipe. Lets take a look on how the stock system works.

The system is made up of an outer steel tube which has an attaching ring, an inner rubber tube which contains a rollover value, a flow/vent tube, and a filler/cap adapter. Here is how it works. When you remove the fuel filler cap, you unscrew it from the filler/cap adapter. You insert the fuel nozzle into a hole in the filler/cap adapter. This moves the flapper valve at teh bottom of the filler/cap adapter. When you pull trigger on the fuel nozzle, fuel flows down the flow/vent tube, the inner rubber hose and past the rollover valve and into the tank. As the fuel displaces the air in the tank, it needs to go somewhere. The inner rubber hose is much smaller than the outer steel tube. The space between the two acts as a vent. The air goes up this space and through holes in the flow/vent tube and filler/cap adapter.

When builders modify the Mustang filler pipe, it is the air venting system that they remove. This doesn't allow the air to escape properly when filling thus pressuring the fuel tank. In the modified system, when you stop pumping, the pressure needs to go somewhere and it ends back up the pipe and over the person or the side of the car. I did some research and came up with a different solution.

My solution is to disassemble the fuel pipe and removing all the components. Then modifying the pipe to fit and reinstalling the pieces.

1. Take the 1987-1995 Mustang fuel filler pipe and clean it. Remove and grease or dirt.

2. Locate and drill out all the welds that hold the mounting ring to the pipe. There should be four. I started off by drilling a locating mark with a 1/8 inch drill bit. Just going deep enough to make a dimple. I then used a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill though on the mounting ring welds. Do not drill through the filler pipe.

3. Use a pipe that has a 2-1/4 inch ID and is 1-1/2 2 inches deep to break the drilled welds. I used a piece of 2-1/2 inch exhaust pipe. Place the pipe from the top and pound down until the mounting ring moves down the pipe.

4. Locate the dimple on the filler tube as shown in the following two pictures. It should be in line with where the bronze coloured flapper is mounted in the pipe. Mark a line from the top of the pipe down 3 inches. This is where you will open the pipe to remove the components.

5. Use a 60 grit flapper wheel on a grinder and remove the metal. Go slow and gentle. You can tell if you are going too fast if the metal discolours. Keep going in light grinds checking regularly. When you see the metal start to deform, then you have it very thin. This can also be seen in discolouration even when grinding lightly. When it is this thin, you should be able to use a small pick or nail to open up sections of the pipe. Keep grinding those sections that are thin enough yet, but make sure that you don't touch those sections that are open or you can damage the internal components.

6. Once you have the pipe opened up, mark a line 3 inches from the top of the pipe at the location of the dimple. Then from the dimple mark 90 degrees around the pipe on both sides of the pipe. Take a hack saw and gently cut the pipe.

7. Pry the pipe back. You should be able to remove the filler/cap adapter easily. The use a screwdriver and placing it in the vent hole of the flow/vent pipe, pry the flow/vent pipe and inner rubber hose out of the steel pipe. It will be hard at first, but easier once the rubber tube is past the bend in the steel pipe.

You will now have all the internal pieces removed.

At the 3 inch location where you cut with the hack saw, cut through the pipe. Then you can remove the mounting adapter.

The pipe is 2 inch OD and someone could get a muffler shop to bend the pipe to your exact situation. Then using a muffler tube expander, open the top and put all the pieces back together.

More to follow...

The radiator in the Factory Five Type 65 coupe is quite a distance from the engine when compared to other cars. The kit comes with an flexible metal pipe to be cut to fit. Since my plan was to use as many factory parts as possible, I sought to find Ford hoses that could be used with as little modifications as possible. Here is my solution.

The first thing that you have to think of when designing a cooling system is how will the system be filled? If you don't have the filler as the highest point in the system, then you might have problems getting rid of all the air that might be there when you fill it. I have seen many builders complain that they are having a hard time "burping" the cooling system, so this was a top priority.

The solution is a de-gas tank. This is a "purge" canister positioned at the highest point in the cooling system. This allows the coolant circuits to be filled more completely than a conventional system. The canister bleeds off the trapped vapors that tend to accumulate in a sealed system as a result of normal thermal cycling.



All Mustangs since 1996 have this type of system. So the first part in the Type 65 Coupe coolant system is a overflow de-gas tank from a 1996-2004 Mustang.



For a de-gas tank to work, it must be the highest part of the system. With the low hood of the coupe, this makes it very difficult to use the 1987-1993 Mustang upper coolant hose.



The 1987-1993 radiator hose (circled) runs on top of the alternator and would cause clearance problems with the hood. It would also prevent mounting the de-gas tank in a location that would make the filler cap the highest point in the system.

In 1994, when they redesigned the Mustang, they lowered the hood. This lowering caused Ford to use the accessory mounting brackets from the 1993 Thunderbird. It also caused them to redesign the upper radiator hose (circled) to go beside the alternator.



In my system, this lowered the hose so it would be below the de-gas tank. So this is the hose that I used.

The problem with using the 1993 Thunderbird, 1994-1995 Mustang accessory brackets is that they are not as common as others and can be more expensive to purchase along with all the unique hoses and connectors too.

There is another Ford vehicle that uses a similar routed hose and is common. The F-150. So for my design, I used these accessory brackets.





One of the things that was needed to complete the radiator hoses is some extensions. This is because the radiator is so far forward from the engine.

The "T" pipe is for the lower radiator hoses and the straight pipe is for the upper rad hoses.



Dimensions and drawings for the pipes.



UPPER RAD HOSES



* Part Numbers *
F4ZZ-8260-A (Motorcraft KM-2432)
F7ZZ-8260-BB (Motorcraft KM-3259)

The upper rad hoses consist of a 1994-1995 Mustang upper rad hose (KM-2432) which goes from the thermostat housing to the aluminum connector. The hose goes on with no modifications. A 1987-1993 Mustang upper rad hose (KM-3259) goes from the aluminum connector to the radiator inlet. KM-3259 needs to be cut as shown.



LOWER RAD HOSES









* Part Numbers *
F4ZZ-8286-A (Motorcraft KM-2831)

The lower rad hose consists of a 1994-1995 Mustang lower rad hose (KM-2831) which runs from the radiator outlet to the aluminum connector. This hose needs to be cut as shown.


[extend] [extend]

The original coupes had had a spare tire mounted in the rear of the car under the hatch.





I decided that I would make one for myCoupe. After doing some research I designed my version on CAD.



To download a copy of the plans for this spare tire carrier. Right mouse click on the link below save.
SPTIRE.DXF

The materials used were 3/4 inch .065 steel tube. The tire carrier was designed to take a tire that is no larger than 26 inches in diameter. The plans can be changed to accommodate a larger or smaller tire.

MORE TO FOLLOW

Using a Ford 5.0 GT-40 EFI system in a Type 65 Coupe can cause hood clearance problems. This will document what you can and cannot use to install into the Coupe.

Note:
* This information only applies to GT-40 intake systems.
* It is assumed that a phenolic spacer of between 3/8 and 1/2 inch in thickness.
* You plan to use the EGR system. (There is no reason not to use EGR on a 5.0 EFI engine and not using one can cause problems.)
* EFI computer is from 1989 to 1993.
* Engine mounts are from convertible Mustang.

Since the majority of the Ford performance EFI systems use the 1989 to 1993 computer, then the starting point for the design is a A9L or A3M1 Ford Mustang computer. With this mind, the plan is to use parts that are compatible with those engine/computers.

The starting point was:
PART(S)
* 1993 Cobra GT-40 lower intake manifold (M-9461-A50, F3ZZ-9424-D)
* 1993 Cobra GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51, F3ZZ-9424-C)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-A302)
* 67mm EGR spacer (M-9474-A50)

RESULT

With this combination, there was clearance problems. The top of the throttle body and EGR spacer both hit the hood preventing the hood from closing.

The back of the EGR valve hit the frame.

SOLUTION

In 1994 the Ford Mustang had body changes. The nose of the car was sloped downloads. Ford changed the 5.0 intake so it would fit under the new hood. Since the hood of the Type 65 Coupe was also sloped downward, it was logical to see what solutions could be applied from the 1994-1995 Mustang.

PART(S)

The first step was to use the Ford Racing inlet adapter (M-9927-A50) which is required to fit a pre 1994 GT-40 intake on a 1994-1995 Mustang.

DELETE
* 67mm EGR spacer (M-9474-A50)
ADD
* Ford Racing inlet adapter (M-9927-A50)

RESULT

With this change, there was clearance problems with EGR boss on the adapter.

SOLUTION #1

You can keep this combination if you grind down the bottom of the EGR boss to gain clearance between the elbow and the valve cover.

SOLUTION #2

You can keep this if you change to stock aluminum EFI valve covers or the stamped steel ones.

SOLUTION #3

If you want, you can change to the 1994-1995 intake system.

PART(S)
DELETE
* GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-A302)
ADD
* 1994-1995 Cobra R GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51, F4ZZ-9424-C)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-B50)
RESULT

This solved all the clearance problems with the hood. This setup requires that you use 1994-1995 stamped steel valve covers. They can be the plain or COBRA stamped ones. This setup gives the least amount of problems with clearance. The trick is to use the upper intake, throttle body, EGR, and throttle linkage from a 1994-1995 5.0 Mustang 5.0 and everything else from a 1989-1993 5.0 Mustang. I plan to give a full parts list when I get the chance to document it.

With this combination, you can use the intake hose from a 1987-1993 5.0 Mustang. I created my own mounting bracket, but you could use your own design.

If you have any questions or comments, please post them