This article is for those who want to use shorty headers for your Factory Five Racing engine.

I found that if you use brackets from a 5.0 F-150 Ford truck, that you can use shorty headers and have no clearance problems.

With this setup, you can use a 1994-1995 and possibly later Mustang A/C compressor.



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I got some 1996-2000 SN95 Mustang spindles to compare the suspension differences between them and the 1994-1995 SN95 Mustang spindles.

When I got the spindles, they were painted and I wanted them to look as stock as possible. First I wanted to clean off the old paint. When that was done, you can see that they didn't look like the spindles that came from the factory.




I then used a hint that I got from a wise old car builder. I used some self-etching primer and some Stainless Steel from Seymour Paints.




I finished up the paint with a coat of gloss clear paint from Eastwood Co. The finished product wasn't exact, but very close.

Tools: drill, 3/8" drill bit, 1/4" drill bit, center punch

If you plan to use one of the new Ford Racing 8.8" traction-lok rear axle assembly's ( M-4006-B355, M-4006-B373 or M-4006-C373 ) and use the 5-log front/rear super heavy-duty “COBRA” disc brake conversion kit( M-2300-K ) then one of the things that you will need to do is to drill locating holes for the body to axle hose bracket. Since the axle is a new assembly and for multiple configurations, the holes for the body to axle hose bracket are not drilled.

The body to axle hose bracket is item #34 in the M-2300-K kit. It was Ford part number E8ZZ-2282-A which has been superseded by part number F4ZZ-2282-B.



The location of the bracket can be difficult because of the bends and location of where the bracket has to fit. I have created a template to assist you in locating and drilling the required holes.



1. Download the following PDF file which contains the template. Template File

2. Print the PDF file.

3. Cut out the template.



4. Working from the bottom of the axle, mount the template in the following location.



5. Secure the template using tape.

6. Using a center punch, mark the locations of the two holes.

7. Drill the holes to the required sizes.

8. Mount the bracket. You may need to bend the locating tab to make it fit in it's hole.

TOOLS: 3/8" drill bit, drill, small square with level, marker, ruler

1. The fog light mount doubles as the hinges for the nose.

2. The frame mounts for the nose hinges are 30 5/8" apart center to center.

3. Lay the nose down on a flat level surface.



4. Check that the nose is level using the a level part of the small square.

5. Using the small square, find the highest points of the fog light recess.



6. Then mark the top and bottom edges of the recess to get your vertical alignment.

7. Find a used 5" orbital sanding disc. Finer grits work better.



8. Fold the sanding disc in half.



9. Mark the fold line. You can fold the sanding disc over a ruler, lay it down and then mark it.





10. Flatten the sanding disc and place a mark on each end of the line, 11/16" from the edge.



11. Place the sanding disc in the fog light opening with the line side visible.

12. Line up the vertical line on the sanding disc with the lines that you made on the top and bottom edge of the opening.



13. Drill two 3/8" holes at each mark on the vertical line of the sanding disc.



14. Fit the brackets on the car. You will have to bend the lower tabs to fit the curve in the nose.





15. Use a permanent marker to mark the holes you drilled in the body on the brackets. Remove the brackets.



16. Find the center location on the squared section on the front of the bracket.



17. Using that center mark, make a center line down the front of the bracket. I used a piece of paper with a line and then matched the center line on the paper up with the center mark on the bracket and then made a mark on the bottom.





18. Using the mark for the hole that you made, make an intersecting point on the vertical line on the bracket.



19. Drill the 3/8 hole on the upper hole only.





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UPDATE: 2008.07.21 The baffle has been discontinued and no longer available from Ford.

One of the popular intake manifolds for the Ford 5.0 litre engine is the GT-40.

Not all lower intakes are the same. Some of the early ones had two small baffles under the EGR runner and PCV valve. This lead to excessive oil consumption. Later manifolds had a large baffle that solved the problem. The two manifold configurations can be viewed in the following photograph.



If you have an older intake manifold, there is a solution to update the intake manifold to the newer type. Ford released the larger baffle as a service part [ F6TZ-6L678-AA ].



These are still available from your Ford parts department. They are fairly inexpensive.

Here is the process to install the baffle.

1. Purchase the service baffle.

2. Using an old slot screwdriver or sharp chisel and a hammer, remove the existing baffles. Slowly lift the baffle bolts, lifting them using the screwdriver and hammer. Work them in a North, East, South and West pattern. The bolts are pressed in and have a spiral pattern. Working them out in this pattern will keep from damaging the holes in the aluminum manifold. Remove both existing baffles. Save one of the baffle bolts.



3. Place the service baffle on the intake manifold in the location were it is to go. Place the baffle bolts in the existing holes. There is one baffle bolt that doesn't have a hole drilled for it. The bolt is circled in the following picture.



4. Using a hammer, pound the circled bolt so that it makes an indentation in the intake manifold. Remove the baffle.



5. Center punch and drill a hole in the location of the indentation. Drill a 7/32 inch hole to a depth of 7/16 inch.



6. Place the baffle in the desired location. Hammer in the 5 baffle bolts. Take the single baffle bolt that you took from one of the small baffles and place it in the empty space in the service baffle and hammer it in place.



You now have the updated intake manifold.

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